Sunday, May 17, 2009

Buenos Aires, Asunción and Inbetween

Three weeks ago my family and I went to Buenos Aires. Now with my knowledge of the Paraguayan lifestyle being so laid-back, I expected to relax, see a couple sights, maybe purchase a couple recuerdos. Only one of those statements turned out to be true and none of it involved twiddling my thumbs. I suppose a little language lesson could explain my misconception... in Spanish, exists a word called conocer meaning ¨to get to know¨ or ¨to know of¨. Usually it used in relation to people. Ex: ¨Do you know Juan?¨ and the accompaning response would be either ¨Sí, le conozco¨ (or ¨No, no le conozco¨). However, little did I know you can conocer places as well. So when they said we are going to go conocer Buenos Aires, what it really meant was that we were going to be damned if we didn´t turn that place inside-out.


We were up at 0800 hours every morning whether it be to visit the Plaza del Mayo, Casa Rosada or Casa del Gobierno. Additionally, we managed to ride the subway several times, on which you can get you a fair distance for about 35 cents a ticket. However, personally, I prefer the taxis due to the fact that the taxistas are quite knowledgable (or at least the ones we ran into) and the fares won´t break your bank.

Some other cool tourist sites that we visited included: BA Zoo, the BA International Book Fair, Caminito and Tierra Santa.

Caminito is basically a block full of little shops, music, resturants and overall traditional Argentinian art. Definately one of the more touristy places you could go to in Buenos Aires.

Tierra Santa meaning ¨Holy Land¨ is essentially Catholic Disneyland, the first of its kind in the world. A spiritual amusement park full of ancient religous recreations, marked by an enormous mountain in the center from which assends on the hour (everyone take a deep breath here, because I am about to speak in metric) an 18-meter high Jesus figure, every hour on the hour. There are benches beneath Him, on which the majority of the people within the park gather to watch and pray. We checked out most of the exhibits and I allowed myself a couple religously-insensitive and ignorant remarks to make up for the fact that I was extremely insecure. Someone: ¨Hey, lets go to the Last Supper¨ Me: ¨Sure, but I´m vegetarian, does that still mean I get to eat the Body of Christ?¨. Me: Is it true that after Jesus was ressurected he became a Calvin Klein Underwear model, I mean come on, you know he had to be workin´out in that damned cave!¨

The Nightlife in Buenos Aires was a whole other ideal in itself. The first night we went to Teatro Revista (better known in English as Revue). It is an art form unique to Argentina and thousands of them take place all over the country. It combines the aspects of Sexuality, Wit, Dance and Music, all in the setting of a beautful, rustic theatre house. Definately a sight to see.

Another notable evening was when we decided to go out for a late dinner the second to last night we were there, I believe. So we caught a taxi and headed toward, well, who knows where, I wasn´t giving the directions. After we got out of the taxi we were advised not to wander too far, due to the fact that there was some sort of political uprising farther down the way, so our dinner plans appeared to be limited. We wandered down the street and seeing no viable options, ventured back in search of another restuarant, however just as we were about to turn around the corner we were beckoned to enter some guy´s resturant. We initially thanked him and were about to leave, when he started to explain some promotion that his restuarant was putting on, half off on dinner and a ¨show¨. It was all very vague and my spidey-sense was going nuts and I was about to implore my fellow comrades to get the hell out before we find out that the show involves the feast of our human flesh, but he had my mother convinced so we ascended to stairs to his roost with no idea what to expect. When we arrived and were seated it was just as I had feared, there was this ominous music playing, a soft lulliby before it turned into Hostel III: South America. The walls were covered with abstract paintings and chandeliers lined the ceiling. It was elegant, but I was convinced that the ambiance was part of the trap, not to mention the fact that the place was completely empty. The situation began to deteriorate when Margeret Shelley´s Igor arrived, with half of his teeth missing. I was still tense after he took our drink orders and bathed my arm in his gleek. However shortly later, the appetizers arrived and to my surprise, were actually quite delcious. Soon after, the place started to fill up with some people and I was finally at ease. The ¨Show¨ turned out to be a live Tango preformance, which included a three piece band, two seperate dance groups and two different singers. It was kind of an intimate setting, (only about 20 people) so the singers got the audience involved, taking proposals, evening attempting a little Johnny Cash, after asking the nationality of everyone there. After the five-course meal and the front row seats I was sold, the place had been worth picking after our initial hesitation.

Wednesday the 29th of April we returned and that evening my classmates and I went to Caravan. Caravan consists of an abundance of teenagers driving around the city, hanging out the windows, showing off their stereo equipment, being incredibly obnoxious in general. It is usually done the night before a party. So, in addition to supporting the people who were having their party the next day, we were able to promote our own (on the 6th of June). As it turned out, the timing couldn´t have been more perfect for our return, because we ending up having Thursday and Friday off due to El Día de Trabajadores and another day that doesn´t come to mind.


Since I go to Brasil so often, (a couple times every week) I thought it would be fun to take some Portuguese classes. I started two weeks ago and have classes twice a week. The amount of similarites between Spanish and Portuguese is astounding, so it isn´t incredibly difficult.


The 14th of May is Paraguayan Independance Day, so we had been having dress rehersals for our Desfile, a march through downtown which every student in every school participates in, which amounts to tens of thousands. However it rained, so it has been postponed to the 12th of June.


That afternoon, we drove to Asunción for the weekend, because Friday was Paraguayan Mother´s Day. We spent the first two days we probably spent a combined eight to ten hours in Mariscal Lopez Shopping. (Kind of odd, they call what we would call a Mall another english word -- Shopping). I bowled a PR of 112 and was able to see more box office hits: ¨Angels and Demons¨ and ¨X-men 3¨ also I met a small group of the exchange students from the year program. They seemed to be somewhat disillusioned, I suppose being here for ten and a half months can do that to you.


Saturday, at last, I was able to do some sightseeing around Asunción. We checked out some interesting museums, the view of Río Paraguay, (Which seperates the two regions of Paraguay -- the Chaco and the Oriental) Old congress building, Casa de la Independencia and the Casa del Presidente.


Saturday night we went to a discoteca called May-b, whi

ch of course led to some joyous punning. As the night was wrapping up and everyone was about to leave, the police, for whatever reason, started shooting someone outside on the street. (I never got the full story) We ended up getting home safe and sound, though it was a little scare.


Whew, well that is all for this time.


Leif



Friday, April 17, 2009

2 months



A few weekends ago I went to San Bernardino with my family and our friends for Semana Santa which translates to "Holy week." Effectually being our Spring Break. It is a popular vacation spot for city dwellers in Ciudad del Este, Pedro Juan Caballero and Asuncion to name a few. We stayed out in the campo presumably to avoid all the commotion caused by the avid partiers who inhabit San Bern during this time, while still remaining in close proximity to Lake Ypacaraí. (Urh-Pa-Ka-Ah-Ree) The lake has a lot of historical relevance and is cited in several popular Paraguayan songs. It is about the size of Lake Washington, probably slightly smaller, yet the second largest body of water in Paraguay. It is nice hangout spot, however widespread pollution has consequently turned the color of the lake into a nasty brown.

Much of our time in San Bern was consumed in the campo which was basically a ranch setting (though in addition to going to the lake, we took a trip into Asuncion for bowling) playing Mímica meaning Sharades, (in this case for movie titles) and a popular card game played principally in Brasil, Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, Southern Chile and Venezuela called Truco.

Truco
, meaning "trick" is played between 2, 4 (Two teams of two) and 6 (Two teams of three) people with Spanish playing cards. It is like nothing I have played before, the only way I can explain it without launching into too many specifics, is that it combinds the aspects of Hearts (The premise of winning "tricks") and Poker (Deception and Intimidation). Besides,
Wikipedia does a much better job anyway: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truco. The rules are fairly simple, but the strategy takes months or even years of practice to become worthy.

Last week I went to
Foz do Iguaçu with some friends, a Brasilian town just adjacent to Ciudad del Este to watch a movie at the cine. I definately feel fortunate to live boardering two other countries. Especially the fact that it is an open boarder between Paraguay and Brasil, so you can just scoot on through without being interrogated by some douche who wants to know what is in your trunk. "Its plastic explosives, you jerk, whats it to you?!"

The movie turned out to be Fast and the Furious 4. (Yes, it was terrible) I was really impressed with the condition of the theatre; it was nicer than any that I've been to in the States.

Last night, we went back, but this time with the whole family. We watched Slumdog Millionaire which was great, because I hadn't seen it yet. (Gasp?)

I was impressed, just like everyone else, but I feel like I would've liked it more if my expectations hadn't been so high. After seeing and hearing statements like "omg, that was liek the best movie I have EVAR seen!" and "Wow, that totally changed my outlook on life" (I usually take such assertions with a grain of salt) its just hard to go in without preconceived notions. Curse media hype.

Afterwards we went to this neat little Brasilian restuarant closeby. I love the Brasilian style: Instead of serving yourself, the waiter brings you the prepared platters of food, and serves them from there onto your plate, so you don't have to deal with it. You can recieve white table cloth service and 5-star food in this region for the same price as you would pay to dine casually in the States, that is definately one point I am beginning to appreciate. (Due to the fact that all the meat is raised locally and job security is sparce, among other factors). As my Spanish has been vastly improving, I am learning that Paraguayans are great story-tellers, which explains why formal meals are longer here. People seem to enjoy each other's company more.

Next weekend I am going to Buenos Aires, Argentina with my "mother" and "brother" for five days. Really excited, except for the roughly 18 hour bus ride.

I guess I just have one burning question: Is the air actually nice in Buenos Aires?

Sunday, March 15, 2009

One month

It is surreal to think that I have been here for one month already, things have gone by very quickly.

On that note, I can definately notice my gradual assimalation into Paraguayan culture...



  • I wore a wool shirt and jeans today and did not drown in my own sweat.
  • I no longer have a tendency to look like someone with a severe case of Down Syndrome in class.
  • I can generally participate in conversation in social situations (or in the very least understand the topic).
  • My bowels do not turn over after I indulge in a couple of empanadas or most other questionable local delicacies.
  • I have found that wearing a seatbelt is not fashionable, ever.
  • I ignore vendors when they makes this obnoxious sound that can best be described as: ¨chih-chih-chih¨
  • People´s conception of time is not universal.
  • Paraguayan sleeping patterns: It does not necessarily happen when you want it to, it happens when it is convienient for everyone else.
  • Similarly: You are important, but the collective good is more important.
Other than these Observations/Personal victories, I have been doing a variety of things the past two weeks. Two saturdays ago, we went to Carnaval, which was held in my city. Apparently it is not to be confused with the Brazilian ¨Carnival,¨ (I still don´t quite understand the difference). It was basically just a huge Disco. There were probably about 400 to 500 people there, though that estimate is rough. We got VIP passes, so we were partying in style.

Today, I just returned from San Bernardino (A vacation suburb just north of Asunción) where I and the other AFS-Paraguay students attended Adjustment Camp for the weekend. It consisted mainly of learning about Paraguayan history, Hanging out, and talking about our feelings... (Yeah, just great). We stayed in a hotel, but we basically had the whole place to ourselves. It had a beautiful pool, which we took full advantage of by playing a large game of Marco Polo.

It was interesting to talk to the other exchange students: How well they are getting along with their host family, how proficient they were in Spanish in relation to my ability and finding out more about the country which they are from. There were students from the U.S., France, Belgium, Germany, (A surprising amount) Thailand, Japan, Switzlerland, and Iceland. The guy from Iceland was incredible at cubing. He could solve the standard Rubix cube in 20 seconds and the five by five in two and a half minutes! He even had a seven by seven but it was apparently too valuable to take with him to the camp. He declared that he was ¨probably the fastest cuber in Iceland¨ I didn´t doubt it. All in all, it was a pretty nice weekend.

Well thats all for this time.

Buenas Noches,

Leif

Sunday, February 22, 2009

First Week

As of Saturday I have been in Ciudad del Este for 10 days, and it has been an eventful time indeed. I am beginning my second week of school and the structure, of course, is going to take some getting used to:
  • My school is Catholic, but there isn´t a ton of religous activity. [Aside: Many Paraguayans are ¨Casual catholics,¨ (such as my family) meaning that they consider themselves Catholic, but do not routinely go to Church.]
  • My school has a mandated uniform. (I don´t really mind).
  • The Student/Teacher relationship doesn´t make any sense to me. The teachers address you as hijo or child, but they seem to have a high tolerance for clowning around as well (which mis compañeros de clase seem to do in excess). This creates kind of an authoritative contradiction for me; its very confusing.
  • I have somewhere between 8 and 10 classes which are on a bit of a sporadic schedule. Students remain in the one room while the teachers move around.
  • In some areas I am way ahead, (such as math) but in any class that involves a lot of lecturing in Spanish, I am having trouble. (which is most)
Outside of school, life is very tranquilo. Paraguayan people are very laid-back and inviting. I tend to play about three hours of fútbol a day in the ¨club¨ with my homestay brother Carli and anywhere between 10 and 25 other dudes. In the club, fútbol is played on some sort of hard linoleum surface. I am not exactly sure what it is, but I just try to avoid falling on it. We play 5 on 5, first to five goals, with the losing team rotating out. The games are pretty competitive, but we are all pals in the end.

I just began 40 hours of AFS-mandated Spanish classes yesterday. There are currently five AFSers in the class, two from Germany, (I think...?) one from Japan, another guy
from the States and I. The class is a bit tedious right now because I am a little ahead of the rest of the class, but its nice to be able to hang out with some other people that are in the same boat.

In other news, my family threw me a huge surprise party for my 18th birthday. I must admit they left me completely aghast. Additionally, they were somehow able to create this amazing poster for me. (In a couple of days!) Everyone kept prodding me to sing karoake again as I had done the first night, but I really was completely exhausted from the long week. I ended up going to bed at 1am. I´ve never felt like such a party pooper in my life, haha.

Everybody seems to have a different nickname for me, ranging from ¨Hahn-sen!¨ to
¨Lay-fe¨ to ¨Jeffery¨ (I have absolutely no idea where that one came from).

If I understood correctly, this weekend I am going to Carnaval in
Encarnación. I am really excited. I have been horrible about taking pictures thus far, but I will make sure to take some then!

Your fearless reporter from the Southern Hemisphere,

Place preferred name here _______.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Update/First day in Ciudad del Este

Hi everyone... This being my first post, I´ll update you all on the past week or so of my trip. I left Seattle the 10th at midnight (which has become a common theme on the trip) transferred to Miami from St. Paul, Minnesota, where all the other AFSers and I that were going to South America and met and had orientation -- at the Miami International Airport.

(Aside: Miami may as well be located in a Spanish-speaking country, or at least the airport, because roughly 95%, probably higher, of the employees at the airport spoke English as a second language, including the representatives from AFS attempting to help us, which made things very difficult.)

After spending two days in the Miami airport, we finally were able to go through security and get on the plane. Unfortunately, one of the girls in my AFS group lost her passport in the bathroom, and the flight ended up being delayed several hours, (hilarity did not ensue).

Finally, we boarded the plane at 1am, and flew all night, until we arrived in Santiago, Chile at roughly 11am. After a two hour layover, boarded the plane and traveled to Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay. Immediately after exiting the airport, we were struck with the hottest, most humid air I had ever felt in my life. It was (only) 88 degrees outside, but the air felt over a hundred. We traveled to el campo, or the country, were we held a brief one day Paraguayan Orientation, where we met the other AFSers that would be staying in Paraguay.

There we were introduced to a number of Paraguayan customs to name one, Mate: a hot beverage drank in the morning, and Terere: a cold beverage drank in the afternoons and evenings, both being traditional Paraguayan drinks both derived from Yerba Mate. They serve as light stimulants, and are very much ingrained into Paraguayan culture.

After spending one night there, some of us took a bus to ´ciudad del este´ where I will be living. I was met at the bus station by many of there family and friends, including my new four-year old host sister, Gabi, who is currently trying to sneak pictures of me, haha. It was very overwhelming. We drove back to their house and my host brother Carli(to) introduced me to his huge posse of friends (12?). They range from 15 to 20 and are all very fun. From what I understand it is normal for people of all ages to hang out.

We had a huge barbaque, with chorizo (sausage) and steak. I have never seen that much food in my life, unfortunately I was unable to get any pictures of it, but there will be many in the future! We sang karaoke, ate and played mafia until seven in the morning, this is the paraguayan way. I am quickly learning that if you want to have any personal space, do not come to Paraguay! You are constantly surrounded by people, just while writing this blog, six people have to come in to interrupt me.

I have so much more I would like to write, but no more time. I start school tomorrow, I must confess I am a little nervous. I miss you all!